The City of Kobe was my introduction to a large, bustling Japanese town. Busy, multi-lane streets, elevated highways, and public transportation, with pedestrians rushing from crosswalk to crosswalk, but, without fail, waiting for the little green men to give the signal to cross safely. I absorbed the contrast between the western-style Belle Époque former office buildings near the port area and the steel-and-glass contemporary high-rises, interspersed with small restaurants advertising their offerings on banners flapping in the wind and, of course, convenience stores like 7/11, without which the country would surely collapse.

Breakfast was included with our room, and it turned out to be the best buffet breakfast we’ve ever had. From congee (rice porridge) to French toast, a dozen cooked savory Japanese dishes, miso soup with a range of toppings, grilled pork belly or bacon, eggs any which way, you name it, it was there. Breads and pastries, cake, jello with diced fresh fruit (very popular in Japan and delicious), and even a German pastry called a Schnecke, a snail.

After breakfast, we walked to Chinatown, where the hotel had recommended a pharmacy. We found the drugstore/pharmacy in a designated shopping area, which turned out to be a group of very lively pedestrian streets with food stalls, shops, services, and restaurants of all kinds. On our way there, we saw a very large fish and two cute vehicles.

The “Fish Dance” sculpture of a dancing koi by famed architect Frank O. Gehry was a celebratory installation in 1987 for the Meriken Park urban renewal project. The sculpture, it is often said, “witnessed” the devastating Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995, which killed more than 6000 Kobe residents.

When we arrived in Kobe the previous evening, it was already dark. All I could see in passing was something resembling a breaching whale. The discovery of “a Gehry” the next morning came as quite a surprise! Unfortunately, the sculpture isn’t in very good shape, and its maintenance is quite costly. There are those who want to dismantle the sculpture, while others prefer to invest in its upkeep because it’s the only Gehry design in Japan. We’ll see how much longer the locals want to keep it.

As some of you may remember, I do like manhole covers. Kobe had a few nice ones.

After our drugstore purchases and a general survey of the area, we were in dire need of some refreshments, so we popped in at this bar. Except for ketchup and mustard for the lunch settings, every single bottle on display was sake.

Below is a mural we passed on the way back to the hotel.

In search of dinner, we returned to the busy warren of small streets with restaurants galore. After some deliberation, we decided on one of the numerous restaurants specializing in Kobe beef. Touristy, yes, of course, but when in Kobe … you know how the saying goes!

Our dinner was delicious with high-quality meat, perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. The restaurant had a funky atmosphere with Japanese and foreign guests. We enjoyed every bite!

The next morning, we got ready to leave the bright lights of Kobe and move into a much more tranquil environment in the mountains above Kobe city. While lingering in the lobby waiting for our transport, I noticed a bridal shoot in the traditional gardens below. On every trip, it seems, I see at least one🙄

Also in the lobby, we saw this display in preparation for 端午の節句, tango-no-sekku, the Boy’s Festival in May. These days, the celebration of boys has been extended to include all children, and it is celebrated as a national holiday. One has to note, though, that Japan is still a much more strongly male-focused society than in the West. Males are more likely to be served first in restaurants, for example, and one can see husbands walking ahead of their wives, especially in older couples. On the other hand, we’ve seen many young fathers being very attentive to their small children and publicly expressing affection and delight.

Bye for now, I’ll see you again in an ancient ryokan in the hot springs town of Arima Onsen.